Where to stay in Cape Verde: choose the island first
Nearly all the large hotels, and more than half of all hotel guests, are on Sal and Boa Vista, the flat beach islands with international airports and short transfers. Elsewhere you find town hotels, small family-run guesthouses and a few rural lodges, but almost no big chains. The island decides the holiday more than the hotel does, so start with our island comparison.
If you want both beach and mountains, split the stay: a resort on Sal or Boa Vista, then a few nights on São Vicente and Santo Antão or on Santiago and Fogo. Check ferries and flights between the islands first, since connections are limited.
Sal: Santa Maria or an all-inclusive resort
Most of Sal's hotels stand in and around Santa Maria, at the southern tip of the island. Staying in the town or on its edge means you can walk to the beach, the fishing pier, the restaurants and the bars, and choose between hotels, aparthotels and guesthouses. The Hilton Cabo Verde Sal Resort, for example, is on the Avenida dos Hotéis, the hotel strip by the beach. The bigger all-inclusive resorts, including several run by chains such as RIU and Meliá, line the coast on either side of town, some of them a taxi ride from the centre.
All-inclusive works well for families and anyone who wants everything on site; staying in town suits couples and travellers who want to eat out and book excursions independently. The trade-offs: the wind blows almost constantly, especially from December to May, so ask whether the pool and terraces are sheltered; the beachfront in town is busy, with persistent sellers; and some bars play music late. Read more in Santa Maria and Sal.
Boa Vista: big resorts and Sal Rei
Boa Vista's resorts are larger and more isolated than Sal's, spread along the west and south-west coasts from Praia de Chaves to Lacacão, where the RIU Touareg stands. They have long, empty beaches, but outside them there is little within walking distance, so leaving means a taxi or an excursion. That makes all-inclusive the practical choice here. Some resort beaches face big waves and strong currents, so respect the flags.
Sal Rei, the island's small capital, has guesthouses, apartments and mid-sized hotels, restaurants and the beach of Praia de Estoril, which is popular with kitesurfers; it suits independent travellers who want to explore the dunes and the turtle beaches on their own terms. Loggerheads nest on many of these beaches from July to October, so choose a hotel that keeps its beach lighting low; see Boa Vista.
Santiago and São Vicente: towns with character
Mindelo on São Vicente is the best town stay in Cape Verde: guesthouses in restored colonial houses and small hotels near the harbour, a short walk from restaurants and bars with live music. It is also the base for day trips and the ferry to Santo Antão. For a beach, stay at São Pedro near the airport or at Calhau and Baía das Gatas on the quieter east coast
On Santiago, Praia has business and city hotels on the Plateau, the historic centre, and near the town beaches of Prainha and Quebra Canela. Cidade Velha, the first colonial town, has a few guesthouses for a quieter night, Tarrafal in the north is its main beach destination, and rural guesthouses in the interior mountains suit walkers.
Santo Antão and Fogo: guesthouses for walkers
Santo Antão has no big hotels, and that suits it. Walkers stay in guesthouses, small hotels and rural lodges at Ponta do Sol on the north coast, where the best-known coastal path begins, in the Paul valley and its seaside village, Vila das Pombas, or in Ribeira Grande. Porto Novo, the ferry port, is only worth a night if you are catching an early boat. Many hosts arrange guides, transfers and luggage moves between bases; see Santo Antão.
On Fogo, sleep in São Filipe, where several colonial sobrados have become small hotels, and spend a night or two in a simple guesthouse in Chã das Caldeiras inside the volcano (Fogo). Maio, São Nicolau and Brava have only small hotels and guesthouses; see Maio, São Nicolau and Brava.
Where to stay by type of traveller
First-timers and couples do best in or near Santa Maria on Sal. Families who want everything on site should look at the all-inclusive resorts on Sal or Boa Vista, choosing a beach that is calm enough for children. Kitesurfers base themselves in Santa Maria, close to the main kite spots, or in Sal Rei (kitesurf, windsurf and surf). Hikers belong on Santo Antão, and music and culture lovers in Mindelo. Budget travellers will find the best value in town guesthouses rather than resorts, and those after real quiet should consider Maio.
Practical tips before you book
Water is scarce and much of it comes from desalination, so short showers and reusing towels genuinely help. Hotels charge a tourist tax per person per night on top of the room rate; it rose to €2.50, or 276 escudos, in 2023, and package operators may include it or ask you to pay at the hotel. Small guesthouses often prefer cash. Book early for Christmas and New Year, February half-term and Mindelo's Carnival, and check the best time to visit before choosing dates.