The Cape Verde islands: which one to choose

The Cape Verde islands look alike on a map but feel like different countries: flat desert islands with long beaches, green mountain islands with terraced valleys and a volcano that last erupted in 2014. This comparison of all ten helps you choose, with the honest trade-offs of each and how easy it is to get there. For combining islands, see ferries and flights between the islands.

In this section

The Cape Verde islands at a glance

The archipelago falls into two groups: the Barlavento (windward) islands in the north, Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal and Boa Vista, and the Sotavento (leeward) islands in the south, Maio, Santiago, Fogo and Brava. The more useful split for a holiday is between the flat, dry eastern islands, built for beaches, and the high, mountainous ones, built for walking. The weather differs too: the high islands catch more cloud and rain, while Sal and Boa Vista stay dry; see the Cape Verde climate island by island.

For beaches: Sal, Boa Vista and Maio

Sal is the easiest choice and the most visited: the most international flights, a 20-minute transfer to the resorts, and a real town, Santa Maria, with restaurants and bars. The landscape is flat and stony, the wind is constant and the main beach is busy. Boa Vista has bigger, emptier beaches, the dunes of the Viana desert and some of the most important loggerhead turtle nesting beaches in the Atlantic, but its resorts are more isolated and there is less to do outside them.

Maio is the quiet alternative: long beaches, a small town and almost no large hotels, but few flights and ferries.

For hiking: Santo Antão, Fogo, São Nicolau and Brava

Santo Antão has the best walking in the country, with deep green valleys and paths along the north coast; there is no airport, so you take the ferry of about an hour from Mindelo. Fogo is a single volcano: you can climb Pico do Fogo from the village in the caldera and taste wine grown on the lava. São Nicolau has quiet mountain trails and few visitors, and Brava, the smallest inhabited island, is green, steep and reached only by sea from Fogo, so crossings can be cancelled in rough weather; both are covered in our guide to Maio, São Nicolau and Brava.

For towns and culture: São Vicente and Santiago

Mindelo on São Vicente is the most attractive town in Cape Verde, with colonial buildings, a busy harbour, live music and the best-known Carnival; it is the natural base for Santo Antão. Santiago is the largest and most populous island. Its capital, Praia, is a working city rather than a resort, but the island has Cidade Velha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the inland mountains and the beach at Tarrafal.

Santa Luzia, the tenth island, is an uninhabited nature reserve between São Vicente and São Nicolau.

Combining islands

A first week works best on one beach island. With ten days or more, pair Sal or Boa Vista with São Vicente and Santo Antão, or Santiago with Fogo. Inter-island flights and ferries are limited and often delayed, so allow slack and a spare day before your flight home. For hotels on each island, see where to stay, and for the right season, the best time to visit.

Frequently asked questions

How many islands does Cape Verde have?

Ten main islands, of which nine are inhabited; Santa Luzia is an uninhabited nature reserve. There are also several small islets.

Which is the best Cape Verde island for a first visit?

Sal is the easiest first choice, with the most flights, short transfers and a lively town; Boa Vista suits those who want bigger, quieter beaches.

Is Sal or Boa Vista better?

Sal has more restaurants, excursions and nightlife and a walkable town; Boa Vista has larger, emptier beaches, dunes and turtle nesting, but its resorts are more isolated.

Which Cape Verde island is best for hiking?

Santo Antão, reached by ferry from Mindelo on São Vicente, has the best trails; Fogo is the choice for climbing a volcano, and São Nicolau for quiet mountain walks.

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